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Roadside winter pitha: A taste of tradition, a lifeline for many

Rajib Kanti Roy, Dhaka

Published: 10 Jan 2025, 11:01 PM

Roadside winter pitha: A taste of tradition, a lifeline for many

Different kinds of freshly prepared winter pithas are displayed for sale at a roadside shop in the capital’s Farmgate. The photo was taken on Friday. - Muktadir Mokto

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Winter in Dhaka brings more than just cold weather – it revives a cherished tradition as roadside stalls across the city brim with the irresistible aroma of freshly made pithas, drawing food lovers and nostalgia seekers alike.

This seasonal tradition has created a buzz yet again, with the demand for winter pithas skyrocketing. Not only are food lovers relishing the chance to savour these treats, but the thriving trade is also helping pitha makers support their families.

For many who’ve moved to the city from rural areas, these pithas are like a comforting hug from home, a nostalgic journey back to the kitchens of mothers and grandmothers.   

Shariful Islam, a mathematics teacher at a coaching centre, shared his thoughts as he enjoyed a pitha from a roadside vendor in Shahjadpur.

“I moved to Dhaka ten years ago, leaving my village to study and earn a living. Since then, homemade pithas have been a rare treat. But these roadside shops let me relive those memories. It’s not quite the same as what my mother made, but it still feels special.”

The pitha makers themselves are happy with the overwhelming response from customers.

Take Fatema Akter, for example. She runs a stall at Mohammadpur bus stand, where she has set up eight clay ovens to sell favourites like chitoi, patishapta, and bhapa pitha.

“Before this, I worked as a housemaid in different homes,” Fatema said.

“No matter how hard I worked, I could never earn enough to make ends meet. Last year, I started selling pithas with just three clay ovens. This year, I’ve added more ovens and expanded my menu. Alhamdulillah, it’s going well. I’ve even managed to send my two children to school with the money I’ve earned.”

Roadside pitha stalls are a treasure trove of flavours, offering everything from the ever-popular bhapa pitha to lesser-known varieties like puli pitha.

Prices start at Tk10, but some carts charge Tk30-40 for their creations.

Bhapa pitha, with its combination of rice flour, coconut, and jaggery, is a classic winter delight. The soft, fluffy texture and rich flavours make it a must-try.

Chitoi pitha, though not exclusive to winter, is a crowd favourite during the season. Paired with a variety of bhortas – like morich bhorta, chepa shutki bhorta, or dal bhorta—it’s the perfect evening snack.

Teler pitha, or doba pitha, is another popular choice. Its slightly sweet, soft, and greasy texture makes it both indulgent and comforting.

Meanwhile, chapti pitha, with its spicy kick from rice flour and coriander leaves, has gained a loyal following in recent years.

This year, though, some pitha lovers have noticed a change. Prices are higher, and portions seem smaller. Nazrul Islam, a pitha seller in Mirpur’s Rupnagar area, explained why.

“It’s not just about the price of kerosene oil going down,” he said.

“The cost of rice flour, jaggery, and cooking oil has gone up a lot. Even with the price increase, we’re struggling to cover costs, so we’ve had to make the pithas smaller.”

For those willing to spend a little extra, posh pitha shops around the city cater to more refined tastes. While the prices are higher, the selection is impressive. Alongside the classics, these shops offer malpua, puli, and patishapta pithas.

Malpua, fried in ghee, has a rich taste thanks to ingredients like fennel seeds, peppercorns, and bananas. Puli pithas, filled with coconut, jaggery, or even savoury options like chicken or shutki, are a treat best enjoyed hot. And then there’s patishapta – a rolled pitha filled with a heavenly mixture of kheer, coconut, date palm jaggery, ghee, and cardamom. Every bite is pure joy.

Whether it’s from a humble roadside stall or an upscale shop, these pithas do more than just satisfy cravings – they keep a cherished tradition alive. For Bengalis, winter wouldn’t be the same without them.

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