Buffalo milk yogurt, locally known as Mahishar Dahi, has become a traditional delicacy and a major source of livelihood in the coastal areas of Ramgati and Kamalnagar upazilas in Lakshmipur, as demand for the sour, thick yogurt continues to grow.
Made from raw buffalo milk collected from char areas of the Meghna River, the yogurt is traditionally fermented in clay pots. It is particularly popular at social events and is considered an essential item at meals in the region.
According to the upazila livestock departments, Ramgati has around 8,290 buffaloes in different char areas. The animals produce about 12 tonnes of milk a day, or around 360 tonnes a month.
The milk is used to produce approximately 4,380 tonnes of yogurt annually. Besides, Kamalnagar has around 3,550 buffaloes, which produce about 972 tonnes of yogurt a year, according to the livestock department.
The combined annual market value of buffalo milk yogurt produced in Ramgati and Kamalnagar has exceeded Tk112 crore in the current fiscal year. The yogurt is sold at Tk250-300 per kilogramme.
The industry has created a local economic network involving buffalo owners, herders, milk collectors, transport workers, yogurt producers and vendors.
According to the Ramgati-Kamalnagar Buffalo Owners' Association, large buffalo herds are raised in several chars that have emerged in the Meghna River. Raw milk is collected from the chars after the animals are milked in the morning and afternoon and transported by boat to yogurt makers.
Buffalo owners, however, said the expansion of char settlements and alleged extortion by politically influential land grabbers are threatening the future of buffalo farming. They said newly emerged chars are being occupied and sold, reducing grazing land for buffaloes.
Lokman Hossain, a buffalo herd owner, said he has around 400 buffaloes in the char and has to pay money to political leaders and land grabbers. He said the shrinking grazing areas are making buffalo farming increasingly difficult.
Ramgati Upazila Buffalo Owners' Association President Mohammad Selim and General Secretary Zayed Hossain said the association has more than 40 members. Although the number of buffaloes owned by its members has increased, they alleged that land grabbers are demanding extortion by using political influence.
They said many buffalo owners are considering leaving the business because of the pressure and shrinking grazing land.
Yogesh Chandra Saha, owner of Saha Dahi Bitan at Alexander Bazar, said his shop requires 5-7 tonnes of buffalo milk every day to produce yogurt, which he collects from the char areas. Industry stakeholders said steps are needed to protect grazing land, prevent encroachment on chars, curb extortion and increase milk production to sustain the growing buffalo yogurt industry.
They also called for modern artificial insemination facilities, easier access to animal feed and veterinary services, and improved systems for milk collection and transportation.
Kamalnagar Upazila Livestock Officer Dr Md Shakhawat Hossain said the char areas are highly suitable for buffalo farming and that the number of buffaloes has increased significantly in recent years. “We are supporting farmers and herd owners,” he said.
Ramgati Upazila Livestock Officer (Acting) Dr Md Rubel Sarkar said the number of buffalo herds in the upazila had increased significantly alongside growing demand for buffalo yogurt.
“Medicines are being supplied according to demand. We regularly send veterinarians with medicines and provide necessary advice to herd owners,” he said.