Dhakai Jamdani is such an adorable heirloom piece that you may find it in the wardrobe of every fashion enthusiast. This art of textile weaving has its roots in Dhaka. Jamdani is considered as the finest variety of muslin that is hand-woven. An intricate weaving technique is used in making this sari. The demure detailing is exquisite and the beauty is stately. Jamdani is one of the rare types of sari that is traditional, yet classy. Ahead of Pahela Baishakh, the biggest festival for Bengalis, ‘Groove’ puts forward everything related to this fabulous attire.
The base fabric used in Jamdani is a soft and thin sheer thread. The motifs are woven with a thicker thread. And for that wefting on the fabric is done manually twice with threads interlaced using spools made of fine bamboo. Actually no word regarding the weaving skills of Jamdani can explain properly the rigour, ardour, detailing and craftsmanship of the weavers who produce this exceptional piece of attire. The weaving process takes more than two months. Each day weavers spend 18 hours to produce a handmade Jamdani. After the final touch of the weavers when a Jamdani is prepared and a girl or woman wears it, it looks like tiny flowers wafting through air giving it a dreamy appearance.
Usually Jamdani has two special types - one is half silk and another one is cotton. Rashom fiber is used to make half silk Jamdani. On the other hand, best quality cotton fibers are used to produce cotton Jamdani.
Colour and design
There are several patterns and designs of Dhakai Jamdani. The most common ones are dual-coloured ones (red and white, or black and white) where the base fabric and the motifs have contrasting colours. My favourite kind is the monochromatic ones. Motifs are usually available in the shape of paisley (kalka), polka dots (butidar) or rectangular motifs (charkona) which adorn the sari.
If you are planning to wear Dhakai Jamdani for the celebration, I would recommend you to go for a monochromatic one. Wear it with a bright coloured blouse, and pair it with large jhumkas and a statement neckpiece. Other options are also available. A red Jamdani is the perfect choice to flaunt your look in any occasion. You can also pick pink, white and gray coloured Jamdani.
However beware of fake saris. To find out whether a Dhakai Jamdani is original or not, you will have to turn the sari inside out. The detailing can be observed on the reverse side, wherein you need to give a deeper look at the motifs. You will see that the yarn used on the motifs is continuous. On the pallu too, you will notice that the threadwork is continuous. In a fake Dhakai Jamdani, which is machine-manufactured, the threadwork will be sporadic.
Original Jamdanis are tremendously elegant. And once you own an original Jamdani, you will consider it as one of your treasured possessions.